The camino from Alvaiázere to Rabaçal It was really lovely that the hotel in Alvaiázere had accommodated myself and another pilgrim in a house, but it was absolutely freezing inside and therefore I didn’t actually sleep that much. Every time I turned over in my bed I felt the cold creeping back in. So I…
Diving into Portugal’s Roman heritage The Romans entered Portugal in the third century BC. During the approximately 700 years under Roman rule, many new towns were founded, some of which you can still visit today. Others had been vacated and forgotten, until someone dug up the ruins. Conímbriga, situated about 16 km from Coimbra, is…
On the Caminho from Tomar to Alvaiázere After five days of walking it was so nice to take a day off. I made myself comfortable in the hostel and started the day slowly. There was plenty of time in the afternoon to explore the sights. I sat on my bed, organizing my things when I…
My fifth day on the Camino Portugues. My soggy shoes stood in front of me. I was ready to go, but dreaded putting them on. It reminded me of the miserable walk yesterday. As I put my feet in, I slowly felt the water seeping into my socks, millimeter by millimeter, until my feet felt…
A wet day on the Portuguese Way from Santarém to Golegã The weatherman had forecasted a rainy day and I had mentally prepared myself to have to start walking in full rain gear. However, I was pleasantly surprised to wake up without hearing the rain and even after breakfast it was still dry. I started…
The Portuguese way from Alvaiázere to Santarém I was so excited to finally take a turn away from the railroad tracks today! So even though it was only 7.40 AM on a Sunday and very foggy again, I was in good spirits. I crossed a river and turned left on an ancient Roman road. There…
An unexpected conversation to start my day After freshening up I went down the square winding staircase of the hostel in Vila Franca de Xira. I’d had the 4-bed dorm to myself that night and had slept like a baby. They’d told me there was breakfast in the morning, so I went to check it…
The first stretch on the Camino Portuguese is about 36 km long. It’s a big distance when you’re only just starting the walk, so I decided to split it up into manageable sections. It was the right decision, not just for my body, but also for my mind. The initial approx. 50 km of the…
An 8,5 day itinerary on the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Coimbra Not many people start the camino in Lisbon. It may have something to do with the distance of 630 km to reach Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It takes a while… I made the spontaneous decision to start walking after my hike on…
How I ended up spending a long weekend in Coimbra The pandemic grew into the second wave in Europe while I was traveling in Portugal. In early November there was a long weekend due to a public holiday and the Portuguese government put some measures in place to prevent the spread of COVID. Therefore the…
In 16,5 km from Burgau to Lagos I knew I had a short last day, but for some reason I raced through it. From the moment I left Burgau I joined other walkers, some walking their dog, others going out for a run or a stroll. It seemed like I was walking through the outskirts…
Following the coast from Sagres to Burgau “Difficult” says the rating of today’s walk on the Rota Vicentina website. Great. I hadn’t slept well at all because of a terrible stomach pain. I decided to just get out of bed, take a painkiller and get the day started. I was certain I wouldn’t be able…
On the fishermen’s trail from Vila do Bispo to Sagres I was walking on a dirt road and noticed an extraordinary number of snails surrounding me. They were everywhere; on the plants, on poles of power lines, on fences and rocks. Occasionally a car drove by, slowing down so they wouldn’t leave me in a…
Santarém is a small city on the Tagus river about an hour’s drive North of Lisbon. The town has been around for hundreds of years, but has sadly lost its former glory. It lies on a hill in the middle of a plain with the river running through. It’s surrounded by agriculture and lots of…
The Fishermen’s trail from Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo Well… I always say I want to be healthier. In practice this doesn’t really happen. But at least I’ve got the exercise covered, especially the day I walked from Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo. Somehow I managed to turn 16 km into 27 km! And no,…
